Brake Job
Rating: +0
Tools: Flathead screwdriver, allen bolt set(specifically 5mm), ratchet set to remove rear shock bolts.
I have right at 60k on my bike... I do the brakes every 15k regardless.. I have always used Honda direct replacement and have been real happy with them and they usually last 14-15k. Also use the Honda brake fluid.. its there might as well get it there. The pads were sold to me for $26/each since I'm a regular and I do a lot of stuff with the dealer.
Front Brakes
So the 1st thing you do is remove the plug screw that is hiding the allen bolt with a flathead screwdriver. Set it to the side.
Next, remove the 5mm allen bolt in a counter clockwise manner.. if this is your 1st brake change this will be hard to bust because allen bolt wrenches don't have much leverage and are not world renown for their torque.. ha ha.. get you a little cheater bar if you have to.. after the threads are visible you might have to loosen and pull the pin at the same time.
The pads will not fall right out but will be loose.
TIP: Before pulling the pads down and out-take the pad nearest you and grab it by the little round bit at the bottom and pull towards you (this will push the 2 round piston in) (they apply the pressure to the pad). Do this for the back side but push away from you. Once you do this they will fall right out (take note of how they go in.. they only go in one way with each pad facing inward towards the rotor) and when you put the new ones in they will slide right in.
In the last pic you see a straight edge go across the brake pads that is actually held on by a spring (sometimes it will pop off) and its a pain to put back in but if you exercise the pistons before you pull the pads out-the pads will not catch the spring as they fall. If it does, don't worry-the spring only goes in one way but you will need a flashlight to see how it fits in because its very dark in between the calipers and awkward to see and get too.
Putting the new ones in. When looking at the new pads (try not to get any grease or dirt on the ceramics of the pad) you will notice the round rings that the bolt goes through on one end and a indention on the other. This indent fits into a groove. I always do the far side (blind side first).. you will hear it click when it fits in and the round hoop on the other end lines up with the round pin hole we pulled earlier. The second pad will sometimes have a pain fitting into the indent but at least on this side you can see where its supposed to line up with (can't on the far side). If you are having problems getting the pads in (don't worry).. your not screwed.. ha ha. The pistons have pushed back out, get a semi-long screwdriver or something flat and push the pistons away from the rotor using leverage against the rotor and then they will push in (away from the rotor). Slide your pad in and bam (if you wait too long though-the pistons will push back out and you have to re-push them in).
This pic shows the indent with the little clip that the top of the pad lines up with.
Now both pads are back in and all you have to do is re-insert the long allen bolt and screw it in.. sometimes you have to push it as you tighten it up. It asks for 13ftlbs of torque but a torque wrench is not necessary if you don't have one. Tighten till its hand tight and then give it 1/8th turn.. don't gorilla tighten it though! You now put the screw cover back in place and your done.
DO NOT FORGET to pump the brakes a couple times after you do any brake job or you will not have brakes the 1st time you hit them and are coming to a stop sign.
Rear Brakes
The rear brake is almost as easy as the front but there are a couple of things that are different. You are going to have to jack the bike up a little (if you have the stock suspension and for those who have struts like me (you have to lift a good bit up). When you undo your suspension just take the bottoms off and leave the top attached. Jack the bike up letting the wheel stay on the ground. The reasoning for this is that the brake pads come up out of the top of the caliper instead of the bottom like the front.
First remove the bolt that attaches the caliper to the bike.
Next remove the screw that hides the allen bolt just like the front (it will be very hard to remove if its the first time - factory puts loc-tite on it).
You will notice in the pic that the whole caliper unit is pushed up towards the bottom of the fender away from the rotor.. I would guess its about 3" or so but it does not have to be too terribly high, just enough to get it off the rotor and you can see the bottom of the pads hanging on the allen bolt that needs to be removed.
Unscrew the 5mm allen bolt like the front (maybe have to pull on it while you unscrew to totally remove). The back pad has no spring to hold the pads in so that is not an issue here.
Once you remove the pads you will notice something different. These pads have outer metal clips that are attached to the pads. I have been told they are not necessary and in some instances with aftermarket pads they will not fit, however in my instance since I have bought OEM pads, it's a simple matter of popping them off the old ones and putting them on the new ones. I do not know if these wear out or are supposed to be changed but this is my 4th time and they are dirty but still look the same so I have not replaced them.
There is an outer metal skin an inner whitish sleeve that goes with as well.
The new pads are ready to go in. Put in the far side first (blind side). Unlike the front pads these pads do not have a groove to fit into on the far end of the pads (none loop end). You will have to take a screwdriver to push the "one monster" piston away from the rotor(the back only has 1 big one instead of 2 small ones like the front). It will take a bit of pressure to get it pushed away. Once you do push it away slide the 2nd pad in its place and line all the wholes up with the allen bolt pin holes. Then pull the whole assembly back into place over the rotor. Stick the 5mm allen bolt back in and re-tighten and then follow bu screwing in the cover screw for it. Lastly screw in the long black bolt that attaches the caliper to the bike. You might have to adjust the big bracket bolt bushing a little to get it back into its whole(it has a big polyurethane bushing that moves around a little to stop vibration).
The last 2 pics are the old pads..they were squealing pretty bad and grinding a little and you can see why. There was no pad left and in the 2nd pic (sorry its a little fuzzy) on the right part of the pad you can actually see it was starting to grind metal from the ceramic pad housing (that's were the grinding was coming from.
DO NOT FORGET to pump the brakes a couple times after you do any brake job or you will not have brakes the 1st time you hit them and are coming to a stop sign.